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: If your three-phase motor is humming, squealing, clicking or rumbling, the sound is usually an early warning - catch it now and you can repair; ignore it and you risk a burnt winding or seized bearing. This guide maps the 9 most common motor noises to their likely causes and tells you exactly what to check first.

| Sound | Most likely cause | Urgency |
| Steady low hum | Normal electromagnetic noise, or high supply voltage | Low; fix voltage if abnormal |
| High-pitched squeal | Bearing dry, cage wear | High; stop and inspect |
| Rhythmic clicking | Bearing race pitting, broken balls | High; stop immediately |
| Rumbling/grumbling | Grease degraded or emulsified by moisture | Medium; regrease |
| Deep periodic moan | Broken rotor bars or rotor eccentricity | High; send for repair |
| Sharp whine | Fan rubbing the fan cover, distorted fan | Medium; inspect fan |
| Irregular rattling | Loose end-bell or base bolts | Low; retighten |
| Hum on start, no rotation | Single-phasing, locked rotor, mechanical jam | Critical; power off now |
| Crackling amid hum | Winding insulation discharge, partial short | Critical; power off, send for repair |
The fastest test is simple: cut the power and listen. If the noise stops instantly with the power, the cause is electromagnetic (voltage, single-phasing, winding). If it continues while the rotor coasts, it is mechanical (bearings, fan, loose parts). This one check halves your diagnostic options. Noise that persists after power-off points to bearings and the fan; noise that vanishes points to supply and windings.
Over 80% of motor noises come from the bearings. At light load the sound can be subtle - press a screwdriver or listening rod against the bearing housing and put your ear to it. Three levels of response:
Even but loud: first check whether the bearing grease is due for replacement; top up if dry, replace if contaminated, using the correct NLGI grade.
Rhythmic clicking: the raceway is already damaged - replace the bearing, do not just add grease.
With rising temperature or vibration: stop immediately and inspect the bearing and shaft journal.
Single-phasing: the motor hums but runs slow or not at all, with high current - the fastest way to burn a winding. Check the contactor and fuses.
Voltage unbalance: a phase-to-phase deviation above 5% produces audible noise; check supply quality.
Broken rotor bars: the moan grows louder under load and the ammeter needle swings; rewind or replace the rotor.
Bearing damage and rotor eccentricity cause both noise and motor vibration. If the motor is noisy AND vibrating, run the vibration checklist first (alignment, base bolts, bearings). If it is noisy only, use the sound table above.
Record the sound character and when it appears (start-up, running, load change);
Power off and listen - classify mechanical vs electromagnetic;
Use the table to localise; rule out loose bolts and fan rubbing first;
Replace damaged bearings promptly - never run "until failure";
For winding faults, stop and contact the manufacturer.
Keeping a spare motor of the same specification is the cheapest insurance for critical pumps and fans. SHANGDIAN (Shanghai Electric Motor Factory) supplies YE3/YE4/YE5 low-voltage motors and YBX flameproof series; contact our engineers for selection support or repair guidance.
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